The languages you will hear
Drive from Jaipur to Jaisalmer and the way people say hello changes three times. Our guides can tell which district a man comes from before he has finished his first sentence.
Rajasthani, region by region
- Marwari
- Jodhpur, Bikaner, the desert
- Dhundhari (Jaipuri)
- Jaipur and Kachwaha country
- Mewari
- Udaipur and Mewar
- Harauti
- Bundi and Kota
- Wagdi
- Dungarpur and Banswara hills
- Mewati
- The north-east around Alwar
Hindi, Rajasthani and English
Hindi: the language of government, schools, signs and newspapers, and almost everyone you meet speaks it.
Rajasthani: what most people speak at home, in the fields and in the bazaars.
- A family of languages: linguists describe Rajasthani as a group of closely related languages and dialects, each tied to an old kingdom.
- Marwari: the most widely known, carried across India by the Marwari merchants.
- Softer and local: Mewari is the softer speech of Udaipur; Shekhawati belongs to the painted towns, and Wagdi to the Bhil hills.
- English: widely spoken in hotels, by our guides and drivers, and in larger shops and restaurants.
- Villages and elders: you will need a guide to translate, but everyone responds to a few words of Rajasthani said with a smile.
A long literature
Dingal: the bards of the Rajput courts, the Charans and Bhats, composed heroic poetry in this old literary language, full of battles, horses and the honour of kings.
Pingal: a gentler, Braj-coloured style used for devotional and love poetry.
- Meera Bai: the poet-saint sang her songs to Krishna in a language close to the Rajasthani of her day.
- Mahajani: the merchants kept accounts in a script of their own, which few people can read today.
- A matter of pride: many Rajasthanis have campaigned for decades for constitutional recognition of their language alongside Hindi.
- Read more: our journal piece on the Rajasthani language.
Local tip
Drive from Jaipur to Jaisalmer and the way people say hello changes three times. Ask your driver which district a stranger comes from; he can usually tell before the first sentence ends.
Greetings that open every door
In a Rajasthani home, nobody starts a conversation without a greeting first. Skip it, and people will be polite. Use it, and they will be delighted.
Which greeting, when
- Rajput homes, Marwar, Mewar
- Khamma ghani
- Villages, tea stalls
- Ram ram sa
- Anywhere, anyone
- Namaste
- Mewar, Nathdwara
- Jai shri krishna
- Muslim households, Ajmer
- As-salamu alaykum
- Saying goodbye
- Padharjo sa
खम्मा घणी, khamma ghani
What it is: the Rajasthani greeting, for hello and often goodbye, especially in Rajput families and in Marwar and Mewar.
How: with joined hands or a hand to the chest and a slight bow of the head.
- The reply: the same, or घणी खम्मा, ghani khamma, the words reversed.
- Say it: KHUM-maa GHA-nee, with a breathy kh and gh. Ghani means much or a great deal.
- The fun part: ask any Rajasthani what khamma means and you will get a different answer from each.
राम राम सा, ram ram sa
The village greeting: said between neighbours, farmers, drivers and shopkeepers across Rajasthan.
- Its meaning: the name of the god Rama said twice, with the respectful sa added.
- When to use it: at every tea stall and on every country road; warm, informal and always correct with older people in the countryside.
नमस्ते, namaste
The pan-Indian greeting: said with palms joined in front of the chest, and never wrong with anyone, anywhere.
- More formal: namaskar.
- In Muslim households and at the dargah in Ajmer: you may hear as-salamu alaykum, peace be upon you, and the reply wa alaykum as-salam.
जय श्री कृष्ण, jai shri krishna
- Victory to Lord Krishna: the greeting in Mewar, around Nathdwara and in many Vaishnava families across Rajasthan.
- Say it back: if someone says it to you, it is lovely to return it.
पधारो सा, padharo sa
Please come in, you are welcome: heard at the door of every haveli and hotel, and the most Rajasthani of all phrases.
- Padharo: the respectful form of come, carrying the sense that your arrival honours the house.
- Padharo mhare des: पधारो म्हारे देस, padharo mhare des, welcome to my land, comes from the much-loved folk song Kesariya Balam and has become the state's motto of hospitality.
- Its story: our journal piece on padharo mhare des.
पधारजो सा, padharjo sa
- Please come again: how a shopkeeper in Udaipur or a host in Jodhpur says goodbye.
- Its sense: the door is open whenever you return, which makes it the perfect parting phrase.
Local tip
Say khamma ghani to your hotel's doorman on your first morning and watch his face. It sets the tone for the whole journey.
The little word sa, and other courtesies
Our grandmother could say a whole paragraph with one word. She would raise an eyebrow and say hukum, and we knew instantly whether it meant yes, no or you are in trouble.
सा, sa: added to the end of a word or sentence, it makes it polite. If you remember only one word from this page, make it this one.
हां सा, haan sa: a respectful yes. ना सा, na sa: a respectful no.
Even with names: Ratan becomes Ratan sa when you speak to him with respect, as in पधारो सा or खम्मा घणी सा.
- हुकुम, hukum: literally an order or command, used in Rajput households and by palace-hotel staff to mean sir, madam or as you wish.
- जी, ji: the Hindi equivalent, added after names and titles or used alone to mean yes.
- जी हाँ, ji haan / जी नहीं, ji nahin: a polite yes and a polite no.
- काका सा, kaka sa: uncle, for an older man.
- काकी सा, kaki sa / माँ सा, maa sa: aunt or mother, for an older woman.
- बाईसा, baisa: how a young woman of a Rajput family may be addressed.
- भैया, bhaiya / दीदी, didi: brother and sister in Hindi, friendly ways to address a driver, shopkeeper or waiter, so you sound kind rather than distant.
- Beyond words: elders are greeted first, and in traditional families younger people touch the feet of elders, as you will see at weddings and festivals.
- More customs: our guide to etiquette in Rajasthan.
Local tip
Our grandmother could say a whole paragraph with one word. She would raise an eyebrow and say hukum, and we knew instantly whether it meant yes, no or you are in trouble.
Everyday Hindi you will use every day
These are the phrases our guests ask us for most. All are in standard Hindi, which everyone in Rajasthan understands.
धन्यवाद, dhanyavaad: thank you, more formal. शुक्रिया, shukriya, also thank you, is warmer and very common.
हाँ, haan / नहीं, nahin: yes and no. Add ji to either to be polite.
ठीक है, theek hai: okay, fine, that is all right. The most useful phrase in India.
- अच्छा, accha: good, I see, really? It changes meaning with the tone of your voice.
- माफ़ कीजिए, maaf kijiye: excuse me, or I am sorry.
- कोई बात नहीं, koi baat nahin: no problem, never mind.
- मुझे समझ नहीं आया, mujhe samajh nahin aaya: I did not understand.
- धीरे बोलिए, dheere boliye: please speak slowly.
- आपका नाम क्या है? aapka naam kya hai? what is your name?
- मेरा नाम ... है, mera naam ... hai: my name is ...
- मैं इंग्लैंड से हूँ, main England se hoon: I am from England. Swap in your own country.
- बहुत अच्छा, bahut accha: very good.
- फिर मिलेंगे, phir milenge: we will meet again, see you.
At the table, and the art of manuhar
A Rajasthani host will offer you another helping of dal baati at least three times. The first two refusals are considered good manners. Only the third is believed.
पानी, paani: water. बोतल वाला पानी, botal wala paani: bottled water.
कम तीखा, kam teekha: less spicy. बिना मिर्च, bina mirch: without chilli.
शाकाहारी, shakahari: vegetarian. Most of Rajasthan's food already is.
- चीनी कम, cheeni kam: less sugar. Useful for chai, which is often very sweet.
- बिना बर्फ़, bina barf: without ice.
- बहुत स्वादिष्ट, bahut swadisht: very tasty. Or घणो चोखो, ghano chokho, very good, as we say it at home, though usage varies by region.
- और नहीं, धन्यवाद, aur nahin, dhanyavaad: no more, thank you.
- बिल ले आइए, bill le aaiye: please bring the bill.
- मनुहार, manuhar: Rajasthani hospitality's own word, the insistent, affectionate pressing of food and drink on a guest.
- Saying no once is rarely enough: in a Rajput home or a village, your host will keep filling your plate.
- The trick: leave a little on your plate when you are full, place your hand gently over it, and say बस, bas, enough, with a smile.
- Bas, ab koni: enough, no more, as we say it at home, though usage varies by region.
- जीमो सा, jimo sa: please eat, the words a host may use to urge you on, as we say it at home, though usage varies by region.
- The dishes: our food guide explains what you will be pressed to eat.
Local tip
A Rajasthani host will offer you another helping of dal baati at least three times. The first two refusals are good manners; only the third is believed, so have your hand ready over the plate.
In the bazaar
Bargaining in Hindi is a performance, and shopkeepers love an audience. A few phrases turn a transaction into a conversation, and often into a better price.
कितने का है? kitne ka hai? how much is it?
बहुत महँगा है, bahut mehnga hai: it is very expensive.
थोड़ा कम कीजिए, thoda kam kijiye: please make it a little less.
- आख़िरी दाम? aakhri daam? final price?
- बस देख रहा हूँ, bas dekh raha hoon: I am just looking (a man speaking). A woman says bas dekh rahi hoon.
- यह, yeh / वह, voh: this one, that one.
- बड़ा, bada / छोटा, chhota: big, small.
- रंग, rang: colour. और रंग हैं? aur rang hain?: are there other colours?
- हाथ का बना है? haath ka bana hai? is it handmade?
- Manners: bargain with a smile and walk away graciously if the price is wrong.
- How to bargain fairly: our shopping guide explains, and why we never take guests to commission shops.
Local tip
Bargaining in Hindi is a performance, and shopkeepers love an audience. Ask aakhri daam? with a grin, and the price often moves with the mood.
On the road and in the lanes
Every Rajasthani gives directions with total confidence, whether or not they know the way. Ask three people and go with the majority.
... कहाँ है? ... kahan hai? where is ...?
शौचालय कहाँ है? shauchalay kahan hai? where is the toilet? Most people also understand toilet.
सीधे, seedhe / दाएँ, daayen / बाएँ, baayen: straight on, right, left.
- रुकिए, rukiye: please stop. धीरे चलिए, dheere chaliye: please go slowly.
- कितनी दूर है? kitni door hai? how far is it?
- चलो, chalo: let us go. Said a hundred times a day by every driver.
- यहाँ, yahan / वहाँ, vahan: here, there.
- क्या मैं फ़ोटो ले सकता हूँ? kya main photo le sakta hoon? may I take a photo? (a man speaking). A woman says sakti hoon.
- मदद कीजिए, madad kijiye: please help. डॉक्टर, doctor: doctor.
- कठे, kathe: where, as we say it at home, though usage varies by region. Your guide will be impressed.
Local tip
Every Rajasthani gives directions with total confidence, whether or not they know the way. Ask three people and go with the majority.
Words you will meet on every page
Half the pleasure of Rajasthan is learning the words for its buildings, dress and food. These are the ones that run through every guide on our site.
हवेली, haveli
- What it is: a large townhouse built around one or more courtyards, home to a merchant or noble family.
- Where: the painted havelis of Shekhawati and the carved sandstone ones of Jaisalmer are famous. Read what a haveli is.
झरोखा, jharokha
- What it is: a projecting balcony window, usually covered and often screened with carved stone lattice, from which the women of the household could watch the street unseen.
- Why it matters: the signature shape of Rajput architecture. Read what a jharokha is.
छतरी, chhatri
- Literally an umbrella: a domed pavilion on pillars, built as a memorial over the cremation site of a king, queen or noble.
- Where: Bada Bagh in Jaisalmer and Gaitore in Jaipur have whole fields of them. Read what a chhatri is.
बावड़ी, baori
A stepwell: flights of steps lead down to water stored deep underground.
- The most spectacular: Chand Baori at Abhaneri and Raniji ki Baori in Bundi.
- Kund and jhalra: a कुंड, kund, is a stepped tank, and a झालरा, jhalra, a stepped pool fed by seepage.
गढ़, महल and पोल, garh, mahal and pol
Garh: a fort, so Chittorgarh is the fort of Chittor and Nahargarh the fort of the tigers.
- Mahal: a palace or a palace building.
- Pol: a gate, as in Hathi Pol, the elephant gate, or Suraj Pol, the sun gate.
साफ़ा, ओढ़नी and घाघरा, safa, odhni and ghaghra
- Safa: a safa or पगड़ी, pagri, is a turban, tied differently in every region. Read about the turbans of Rajasthan.
- Ghaghra and odhni: women wear a long full skirt, the ghaghra, with a head-cloth, the odhni.
धोरा, dhora
- A sand dune: the dhoras of the Thar around Jaisalmer and Bikaner are where we take guests for sunset, music and a night under the stars.
मेला and उत्सव, mela and utsav
- Mela: a fair, like the great camel fair at Pushkar or the cattle fair at Nagaur.
- Utsav: a festival. Teej and Gangaur are the great women's festivals of the year.
Words for temples, festivals and weddings
On kite day in Jaipur, the whole walled city shouts the same two words from its rooftops every few seconds. By evening, our guests are shouting them too.
दर्शन, darshan: the sight of a deity, and the act of seeing and being seen by the god. People go to a temple for darshan, not simply to visit.
आरती, aarti: the morning or evening ritual of waving lamps before a deity, with bells and singing. At Pushkar it is performed on the ghats at dusk.
प्रसाद, prasad: food offered to a god and then shared with devotees. Accept it with your right hand, and never refuse it.
- जय माता दी, jai mata di: victory to the mother goddess, heard at Karni Mata, Amba Mata and every goddess shrine, especially at Navratri.
- वो काटा, woh kata: there, it is cut. The triumphant cry when your kite cuts another's string on Makar Sankranti.
- बुरा न मानो, होली है, bura na mano, holi hai: do not be offended, it is Holi. The cheerful excuse that comes with a handful of coloured powder.
- दीपावली की शुभकामनाएँ, deepavali ki shubhkamnayein: best wishes for Diwali. Or simply Happy Diwali, which everyone says.
- बधाई हो, badhai ho: congratulations, for weddings, births and good news of every kind.
- शुभ, shubh: auspicious. You will see shubh labh, auspicious profit, painted beside shop doors at Diwali.
- Why it helps: using these words shows you understand what is happening around you, and lets you join in when invited. Our festival calendar explains when each falls.
Local tip
On kite day in Jaipur, the whole walled city shouts woh kata from its rooftops every few seconds. Learn it before you go up, and by evening you will be shouting it too.
What the place names mean
Every town in Rajasthan carries a small history in its name. Once you know the endings, the map starts to tell stories.
-pur: usually follows the founding king's name. Jaipur is the city of Jai Singh, Jodhpur of Rao Jodha and Udaipur of Udai Singh.
-ner: from nagar, also town, so Bikaner is the town of Rao Bika.
-mer: usually traced to meru, a hill, which is why so many desert forts carry it: Ajmer is the hill of Ajayaraja, Jaisalmer the hill of Rawal Jaisal.
Reading the map
- -pur
- Town or city (Jaipur, Jodhpur)
- -ner
- Town, from nagar (Bikaner)
- -mer
- Hill, from meru (Ajmer, Jaisalmer)
- Sagar, samand
- Sea or lake
- Sar, sarovar
- Lake or pool
- Bagh
- Garden
- Water everywhere: Fateh Sagar, Jaisamand and Rajsamand use sagar and samand; Gadisar in Jaisalmer uses sar.
- Gardens: Rambagh is Rama's garden and Bada Bagh the great garden.
- Rajasthan itself: means the land of kings.
- Rajputana: the British name for the region, the country of the Rajputs.
- James Tod: his Annals and Antiquities of Rajasthan, published in the 1820s and 1830s, made the name Rajasthan popular in English.
- The stories behind the names: our history of Rajasthan.
Numbers, and the lakh and the crore
When a Jaipur jeweller tells you a necklace costs two lakh, he is not being vague. He is counting the Indian way.
One to five: एक, ek; दो, do; तीन, teen; चार, chaar; पाँच, paanch.
Six to ten: छह, chhah; सात, saat; आठ, aath; नौ, nau; दस, das.
The Indian way of counting
- Lakh
- 100,000, written 1,00,000
- Crore
- 10 million, written 1,00,00,000
- One crore
- One hundred lakh
- Two lakh
- 200,000
- Bigger round numbers: बीस, bees, twenty; पचास, pachaas, fifty; सौ, sau, one hundred.
- हज़ार, hazaar: one thousand.
- लाख, lakh: one hundred thousand.
- करोड़, crore: ten million, or one hundred lakh.
- Halves: आधा, aadha, half; डेढ़, dedh, one and a half; ढाई, dhai, two and a half. Used constantly in prices and times.
Local tip
When a Jaipur jeweller tells you a necklace costs two lakh, he is not being vague. He is counting the Indian way, so do the sum before you nod.
How to say it, more or less
Nobody expects you to sound like a Jodhpuri grandmother. But a few small tricks will make you understood.
Breathy consonants: kh, gh, bh, dh and th are said with a small puff of air, so khamma is not kamma and ghani is not gani.
No English th: in theek hai, th is a t with a puff of breath.
- Curled-back sounds: some letters are said with the tongue curled back against the roof of the mouth, giving the hard t, d and n of Indian English.
- ण: a curled-back n, heard in ghani.
- ळ: a curled-back l in Rajasthani, which Hindi does not use.
- Long and short vowels: the long aa in paani and raja matters.
- Nasal vowels: many words, such as haan and main, end in a vowel said partly through the nose.
- Do not worry: Rajasthanis are generous listeners and will help you.
Local tip
Nobody expects you to sound like a Jodhpuri grandmother. Try the phrase, watch their face, and try again.
What people say without words
The Indian head wobble confuses every visitor. It took a cousin from London three weeks to realise that the waiter had been saying yes all along.
The head wobble: the sideways tilt usually means yes, okay or I understand, not no.
A real no: a firm shake from side to side, more like an English no. If unsure, ask again in words.
Right hand: for giving, receiving, paying and eating. The left is traditionally considered unclean.
- Pointing: use your whole hand or your chin rather than a single finger.
- Feet: never point them at a person, a shrine or a sacred book.
- Shoes off: when you enter a temple, a home or a room with a carpet; watch what your host does.
- Joined hands: the gesture of namaste is always correct.
- Touch: men and women do not usually touch in public, so leave it to a woman to offer a handshake.
- A smile: says most of what you need. Our guide to temple etiquette covers sacred places in detail.
Local tip
It took a cousin from London three weeks to realise that the waiter with the head wobble had been saying yes all along. When in doubt, ask in words.
What we tell guests on their first morning
Before every journey, our guides teach guests three words in the car from the airport. This is what they say.
Say khamma ghani: to the first person you meet in Rajasthan, and every day after that.
Add sa to everything: haan sa, na sa, padharo sa. It is the easiest way to sound kind.
- Use bhaiya and didi: for people you meet in shops, hotels and cars. It makes strangers into family.
- Learn bas, enough: you will need it at every meal.
- A word a day: ask your guide to teach you one, in their own dialect. They will love it.
- Listen to the music: the songs of the Manganiyar singers carry the language at its most beautiful.
- Never be afraid of getting it wrong: in Rajasthan, the effort is the courtesy.